Bali and Gili Air Guide: Our Trip Review

We stayed the maximum amount of time on our Indonesian visa, and there is still so much left for us to explore. We can’t wait to return and explore more.

Accommodation: We stayed in a few places during our month in Indonesia, here is our review on each of the guesthouses and bungalows. Each one was unique and memorable for their own reasons.

Dana Guesthouse – Best budget guesthouse
Teka-Teki House – Beautiful, friendly, best veranda
Bali Moon Guesthouse – Most secluded, authentic experience
Oceans 5 – Best community, location and pool

Cost per day: Our original budget was $40/day but we quickly realized it was too low, especially split between two people. It’s definitely possible if you stay in the cheapest guesthouses, don’t drink, and eat only fried rice and noodles for every meal, and while we did our fair share of all of those we just couldn’t stick to it every day. We ended up around $46/day but could have easily spent $60-70. You can read about our budget for Indonesia.

Exchange rate: $1 USD = 9,000 IDR (as of March 2012)

Nasi Campur

Best Meal: We fell in love with Warung Muslim on Gili Air, which if you read our blog you will likely recognize the name. The nasi campur with extra sambal was our daily go-to for two weeks straight and it is missed. We enjoyed many meals of nasi goreng, mie goreng and some delicious curries, with a pizza thrown in there every once in awhile for good measure.

Bathroom Situation: I used two squat toilets in Bali, neither were at the guesthouses we were staying at. The shower/bathroom combo is popular in Indonesia, where the showers are open air and you might get everything wet and it may seem weird at first, but the heat dries everything off pretty quickly.

Most places require you to place your toilet paper in a trash can, instead of flushing it down. This is important as the sewers can’t handle the paper, and most areas don’t have large wastewater treatment plants like we do in the U.S. In general, you must be more conscious of what you are throwing away as garbage is a major problem. Many places have no trash pickup and people either burn it or throw it in the river. We participated in a clean-up dive at Oceans 5 to pick up trash off the reef and it ended up being our favorite dive.

Rice paddies near Ubud

Funniest Memory: Our funniest memories probably seem dull to most readers – but to us we still laugh about them. When we were in Ubud, there were two competing ant colonies on the veranda outside our room. We bought some bananas and brought them back, and Caroline opened the bag, only to discover they were covered in ants. We shook them off, figuring some of the ants from outside had somehow gotten to them, but they kept appearing out of thin air. We were finally able to determine that there was a whole colony of ants in the banana stems, and after removing that and throwing it away, we were able to salvage the bananas!

Biggest Issue: Our motorbike flat tire in Bali turned out to be much less of a problem than it could have been, thanks to some very helpful locals!

The sun was hotter than I think Josh and I had ever experienced. Neither of us had ever been below the equator and on our first trip to Bali we quickly learned the wrath of the sun and why the locals all wore long sleeves while riding. We were both burnt pretty bad after that day (and for the next week), but learn that lesson once and early in your trip and ever since then we have been lathering on the sunscreen!

Transportation: We walked as much as we could in Bali, but it was more difficult due to traffic and poor sidewalks (open sewers.) Every local and their brother will constantly offer you a taxi or “transport” and we took a few to get between cities. Our favorite transportation was renting a motorbike and driving ourselves. It’s not really practical to get between cities, unless you are renting for long-term but for day trips, it was a hectic and exciting alternative. We took the Ocean Star Express to Gili Air from Padang Bai which included transfers to the port and back.

In Gili Air there are no cars or motorbikes on the island which was a nice contrast from Bali. The only transportation on the island is horse carts or bicycles which we didn’t use do to our location and because we could walk around the entire island in about an hour.

Internet: The internet varied at each place we stayed, which you can read about on each individual guesthouse review. Teka-Teki had the fastest and most consistent internet connection of any place we stayed. Besides there, connections were widely available but generally slow and inconsistent.

Releasing rescued turtles in the Gilis

Places to Visit:

  • Temples
  • Bali Pulina
  • Walks around Ubud
  • Ubud Monkey Forest
  • Gili Air diving

Overall: More to come on our thoughts on Bali, and while we had some great experiences there and met some lovely people, we cut our month down to two weeks and left for Gili Air. Bali had not been what we had expected as it was neither peaceful nor exotic. The touts dominated most locations and the beauty we imagined was hard to find. Bali was overshadowed by our love for Gili Air. Diving was by far the highlight of our month. We are so happy to pick up this skill early on in our trip so we can continue to explore under water around the world. Gili Air is somewhere that I hesitate to share my love of because I don’t want to see it turn into Bali. We would return to Gili Air in a heartbeat but likely won’t return to Bali.

RTW Budget Update: Indonesia

 

Indonesian Rupiah

Indonesian Rupiah

We stayed 29 days and budgeted $40 per day for two people, which ended up being too low, even though our final average was pretty close. We were able to keep it low mainly by picking our accommodations carefully and eating very cheap. We found one warung in Indonesia that we loved and she served Nasi Campur, our favorite dish in Gili Air, which was only $1.10. Some days we would eat that twice a day and only end up spending $4.40 on food. When we weren’t eating Nasi Campur, we ate Nasi Goreng (fried rice) and Mie Goreng (fried noodles) for pretty much every meal ($2.00 and under), and had breakfast covered at every place we stayed (eggs and toast or pancake and fruit with coffee). We ended up spending an average of $46.31 per day, not including our “Adventures” budget. (All numbers are total for the two of us, items like visas, fees, activities and food can be split in half to get a per person amount.)

Exchange rate: 9,000 IDR = $1 USD

Just for fun, this is what 8 million rupiah looks like...

Below, you can see a breakdown of our 4 weeks in Indonesia by category:

CATEGORY USD ($)
Lodging $654.81
Food $328.91
Misc. $105.37
Transportation $176.10
Activities $31.27
Visa on arrival x 2 $50.00
Total Spending $1,346.76

Budget Notes:

  • For lodging, we stayed in guesthouses. There are many accommodation options in Bali and Gili Air and we could have spent even less if our standards were lower.
  • Food was pretty cheap if you knew where to find it. Most restaurants in Bali were expensive, but if you only ate at warungs, you could eat plenty of good food for cheap.
  • Misc. included flip flops, new shorts for Josh, a book, lots of bug spray and sunscreen, playing cards (how did we leave these at home?), and $30 for the stupid airport departure fee that required Josh to go through security three times since there are no ATMs in Ngurah Rai airport.
  • Transportation included three taxi rides (Kerobokan – Seminyak, Seminyak – Ubud, Kuta – Airport) and our fast boat to Gili Air.
  • Activities does not include our scuba diving in the Gilis which is included in our separate “Adventure” budget shown below:
ADVENTURE USD ($)
Scuba Diving – Open Water Certification x 2 $755.98
Scuba Diving – Adventure Deep Dive x 2 $118.07
Total Adventure Spending $874.04

Indonesia is a country made up of over 17,000 islands, and by going to two we saw less than 1% of them. With that said, based on what we saw, Indonesia is very affordable. There are many mini marts with cheap snacks, water and toiletries compared to other touristy destinations. Accommodation is available at every budget level and Indonesian food is cheap everywhere. If you are traveling on a budget, there are many places in Indonesia where you could stay for awhile. We would have stayed longer if our visa didn’t end!

Oceans 5 Dive Resort [Bungalow Review]

Name: Oceans 5
Where: Gili Air, Lombok, Indonesia
When: March 2012
Price: 450,000 – 600,000 IDR / night (Low Season)

The breakfast bar

Who helped us? [Service]

We have stayed at guesthouses were everyone is actually family, and
here at Oceans 5 you get the same feeling. Everyone that works here
becomes family by the end of your stay from Eda who cooks breakfast,
Barry who does a bit of everything, to Simone and Sander who own
Oceans 5.

Fanny, our dive instructor was thankfully very
patient with a sense of humor. Trying to teach us to dive was a brave
move on her part, but we are so glad she didn’t give up on us! We
spent three days watching videos, taking tests and diving 60 feet
below the surface. We never planned to dive prior to arriving at
Oceans 5, but we are leaving with pleasantly unexpected memories and a
newfound skill.

Simone and Sander have a passion for diving and teaching new
instructors which is fun to watch. We stayed during an instructor
development course and got to see how hard they studied to become PADI
certified instructors. Any question we had was quickly addressed and
answered, even when we extended our stay for an entire week they were
willing to work with us and shuffle people around to make it work. We were especially impressed with the clean-up dive each week and the turtle rescue program they run.

Our room

What did it look like? [Ambiance]

Picturesque bungalows overlooked a crystal blue pool. The dive shop is
at the center of the property and serves as a check in point and
central meeting ground for divers or guests. When you get off your
boat to Gili Air you immediately notice the breakfast bar to the right
of the dive shop. It’s usually busy with tourists just off the boat or
guests staying in the bungalows. This is a great place to meet people
and enjoy a cold beer on a hot day.

Exciting changes are going on at Oceans 5 that should be completed
prior to busy season on the Gilis. An additional bungalow, a couple
new standard rooms and a restaurant are being built to better serve
the arriving guests, which is all the more reason for me to return to
check out the new updates later this year!

The bed

Did we sleep? [Room]

We opted for the standard room since we are trying to stick to a tight
budget. The standard rooms are simple with one queen bed and one set
of bunk beds. The bed is one of the more comfortable ones I have slept
in this year. After a long day of diving or walking around the island
I was quick to come back to our room and crash. All rooms have air
conditioning, attached bathrooms and are cleaned each day.

Attached open shower

Were our stomachs full? [Food]

Oceans 5 did a great job of supporting my yogurt habit. Back home, I
ate greek yogurt daily with fresh fruit. When breakfast is included
you usually get pancakes, toast with eggs or breakfast sandwiches. I
was delighted to see yogurt and fruit as one of the options for
breakfast. Josh rotated through them all trying the banana pancake,
toast and eggs and jaffles. Each breakfast was accompanied by fruit
juice and coffee or tea. We left happily full every morning ready to
start the day.

Another perk of Oceans 5 is they have complimentary water refill, tea
and coffee. For someone who likes to stay hydrated it was nice to be
able to refill my water bottle as I was leaving the resort.

The beautiful Oceans 5 pool

How quickly could we surf the web? [Internet]

Using the Internet as much as we do, we realize that connections will get cut off or be weak at times. During our stay here we had multiple denied attempts at signing on to Internet. Oceans 5 uses a hotspot login system instead of just having one Wi-fi password and it seemed someone was always using our login. We stayed here during a busy diving instructor course, so there were many other people using the Internet. Once we were able to sign on it worked pretty well and we were able to skype home, upload pictures and blog.

When we travel to such beautiful places like Gili Air we have to
remind ourselves that we are on an island and sometimes no Internet is
a sign that you need to get outside and enjoy the weather. :)

Where is Oceans 5 Located? [Location]

The Gili Islands are located off the west coast of Lombok and a quick
1.5 hour fast boat trip from Bali. Gili Air is the island closest to
Lombok – much quieter than Gili Trawangan – and more populated and
happening than Gili Meno. It was a perfect in-between for us.

Once you arrive in Gili Air, there is no way to miss Oceans 5. It is
located on the south end of the island directly off the harbor. It
makes transporting your bags to your room rather easy and it is
entertaining to watch everyone get on and off the boat at the harbour
throughout your stay.

Would we go back again? [Overall Thoughts]

We came to Gili Air on a whim and ended up extending our stay for an
additional week at Oceans 5. We enjoyed spending time with the owners,
dive instructors and other guests. There is a positive vibe at Oceans
5 that we thourougly enjoyed and we would love to return. In every
location, people we meet tell us you have to go here next and list off
the beautiful places they have seen. At Oceans 5 we saw the opposite.
Everyone ends up staying here 2 weeks to 2+ months. No one was in any
hurry to leave and it was nice being able to sit and enjoy a peaceful
beach with an active community of guests.

Disclosure: We received a discount off our room from Oceans 5. As
always, the opinions expressed here are our own.

One Hour. One Dive. Piles of Garbage.

In one hour, ten divers were able to fill 10+ bags with garbage that was entangled in the beautiful reef down below. Gili Air is a small island of only 1,800 residents and with the increase in tourism each year the trash has piled up and is finally starting to be addressed by the locals on the island.

Oceans 5 organizes a weekly dive to clean up the beautiful reef located directly off their beach. They invite their guests to join with the dive instructors and divemasters in an attempt to get rid of the junk and keep the reef healthy. Every week they dive, and every week they come up with more and more bags, plastic and random crap that somehow makes its way to the ocean floor.

Josh and I are new to diving, but this dive was by far the most fun. We were able to see the colorful reef with its variety of fish and coral as well help out the local environment. You get great practice on your buoyancy as you hover inches from the coral and reach out for a decaying bag of chips, trying not to disturb any of the life below. There is a camaraderie in knowing you aren’t out there alone, locals and guests together are taking their own time to join in an effort that if ignored would be a big problem.

My hope is that more visitors to the island would join in this dive. Whether you are a pro diver with 500+ dives in your book, or you are a beginner like us, take the time to care about the reefs so that we can continue to enjoy them in the future.

Eat Local: Warung Muslim

When you arrive in Gili Air and take a walk around the island, it will take you no more than an hour unless you are like me and stop every few feet in awe of the blue water and the peacefulness of the waves. You notice plenty of restaurants on the beach with bungalows you can sit under and look out on the ocean as you eat. We tried out a couple of these restaurants, Zip Bar and Biba Beach, both which we loved. However, nothing satisfied us more than a small warung right around the corner.

Our go-to place to eat on Gili Air was not found along the stretch of beach where most of the tourist foot traffic is. There is no ocean view or pillow seats awaiting you, only a smiling face and a few plastic chairs. Warung Muslim was consistently delicious food, a great deal at only 10,000 IDR ($1.10 USD), and a quick walk from our room at Oceans 5.

I challenge you to go here and not order in English. Use the translation on the door and do your best to order in Bahasa Indonesia, trust me she will appreciate the effort and who knows you might learn something! :)

The dish of the day is Nasi Campur, which basically translates to “mixed rice.” You take rice and add an assortment of ingredients (meat, veggies, chilis) that have been sitting out all day. It’s a little unnerving seeing the meat sitting in the case, but once you eat it your fears will subside.

My order:

  • 2 bungkus (2 for takeaway)
  • Nasi (rice)
  • Ayam pedas and sayur (spicy chicken and vegetables)
  • Tempeh manis (soy dish popular in Indonesia mixed with sweet soy sauce and sambal)
  • Coconut powder and peanuts
  • Sambal (extra chili sauce)
Terima kasih! (Thank you!)
Also, she will offer you a plastic bag. I have always turned it down to not create extra trash (burning trash is about the only option here besides throwing it in the ocean) and I just carry my food home.

You will walk away with a paper cone looking like this:

Open it up and you will get this: DELICIOUS!!

How to get there:

Take the path heading inland past Oceans 5 on the south end of the island. Take the first road on your right and Warung Muslim will be the first warung on your left. So easy!

Warung Muslim is not a place you will see a lot of tourists hanging around, a lot of the locals will go here and grab food to take with them. It is simple and satisfying. Josh and I were always full after our meal here and loved the interaction with the sweet lady who runs the warung. She will remember you if you keep going back which makes ordering easier, plus she got pretty comfortable loading up our meals with chilis. Pedas! (Spicy!)